What To Look Out For When Visiting Stirling’s Holy Rude Kirkyard
At the foot of the glorious Stirling Castle, just at the base of an outcrop known as Lady’s Rock, lies a hidden treasure: Stirling’s Old Kirkyard, or you may know it as The Holy Rude Kirkyard.
I first visited Holy Rude because of the tales of bodysnatching, but there’s something captivating about Stirling that I can’t quite put my finger on, something that just keeps me coming back.
I don’t know what it is, maybe the memento mori?
Here, you’ll find death itself in the King of Terrors, skulls that peek out from the bottom of gravestones, the occasional winged cherub, and, don’t forget, the gravestone of the woman dug up and taken for dissection in 1822.
Lying in the heart of Stirling – Scotland’s best-preserved medieval town – Holy Rude is brimming with history.
But with so much to capture your attention here, which monuments and gravestones are the absolute must-sees so that you make the most of your time?
What Memento mori Can I See at Holy Rude Kirkyard,Stirling?
Search through the index of any good graveyard book relating to Scotland and you’re usually give a whole host of places to visit.
But I was really surprised to find that even the renowned Betty Willsher, in her book Understanding Scottish Graveyards, makes only a passing reference to the memento mori at Stirling. (She makes more reference in her book Stones which I think is the more enjoyable book of the two).
Other graveyard books are the same, which I find a bit strange considering the enormity of this site.
My recommendations then come from many years of visiting the site myself, peicing together the odd bit of information gleaned from here and there taken from books and the internet.
So, without further ado, let’s dive straight in with one of the most magnificent memento mori of them all, the King of Terrors.
The King of Terrors
This symbol of death is found at the base of Mary Witherspoon’s gravestone – more on Mary later as she’s the lady to be snatched from her grave.
Death, (strangely, as Willsher says), is covered in a draped robe rather than in full skeletal form.
He’s carved clutching a spade (others say mattock, I think Spade myself), standing over a recumbent figure – his left hand aiming a dart at its chest.
The date is faded on this stone now, along with death’s hoofed foot that Willsher saw gripping the recumbent’s leg in 1978 when she wrote Stones.
The detail that Willsher picked out in the late 70s is hard to make out now, but the stone is still worthy of a visit for sure.
If you want to see this stone for yourself, bear slightly right as you enter the Holy Rude Kirkyard. You’ll be able to see it about halfway en-route to Lady’s Rock, sticking out of the grass.
The top of the stone reads 1823, with the initials JL & HS, but don’t let this put you off, you’ve got the right stone, Mary was in fact buried in the grave of her brother-in-law, James Livingstone.
The Skeleton
Perhaps one of my favourite gravestones at Stirling is the one carved with this rudimentary skeleton below.
Dating from 1734, this wee chap lays across the head of the gravestone. Arms out to his side, the damage to the stone has luckily just missed chopping off his feet.
Winged Cherubs & Crossed Bones
If you want to get your fill of memento mori then head on over to the Sconce Stone, the largest memorial at Holy Rude, Stirling. It’s often referred to as the most elaborate stone in the kirkyard, and once you’re stood in front of it, you’ll be able to see why.
A date on the stone reads 1729 – it was actually erected much earlier than this in 1689 – and was nearly lost when the old kirkyard wall was demolished in 1857.
It’s the burial place of John McCulloch, former provost (that’s chief magistrate, a bit similar to a mayor elsewhere in the UK) and merchant of Stirling. One of his daughters married John Sconce, a family well associated with Stirling, and the family which has ultimately given its name to the memorial.
Skip to further down this post if you want to read the history behind the stone, but for memento mori to tick off your bucket list, this could be the one for you!
The Sconce Stone has crossed bones, winged cherubs, skulls, hour glasses (winged and not), angels and fruit and flowers adorning the border.
What more could you want!
I promise you’ll not be disappointed. Just make sure you look on the side of the memorial for a metal plaque which details the description originally carved in the centre of the stone.
Skulls
Once you’ve spotted a skull in a graveyard, if you’re like me then you immediately go on the hunt for some more!
I’ve already mentioned the Sconce Stone, which has a few skulls peppered around its border, but there are others that you’ll spot as you wander among the gravestones.
Trade Symbols
Keep your eyes peeled for trade symbols throughout your visit to Holy Rude.
There’s a particularly fine example of a baker’s stone depicted with crossed paddles, with a sheaf of wheat at its head.
The detail on this stone, dating from 1804, is just gorgeous, with the quickly weathering initials of ‘P M H L’ carved under the date.
You’ll also see an emblem that looks exactly like the No. 4. dotted throughout the kirkyard.
This is a merchant’s mark, and its origins are thought to originate in Stirling. The symbol started off on the Arms of the Stirling Guildry and has since been adopted by other merchants as their symbol of choice for gravestones.
Keep an eye out as the symbol ‘4’ may be flourished with swirls, or the arm of the ‘4’ carved out as a small cross.
You may also be lucky enough to spot one that has an ‘M’ carved onto one of the arms.
The symbol I want you to see though, is on a slab which bears the inscription 1687 – a slab that was renewed 1848.
The elaborate ‘4’ here has an ‘M’ hanging from both its lower and cross arm – if that makes sense? If not, just take a look at the picture below, then everything should become clear.
If memory serves me right, I think this one is in a cluster of stone slabs near the church itself.
Feat your eyes on this one as there’s a whole host of memento mori to be found – skulls, crossed bones and an hourglass – all carved onto its face, along with winged angels in the corners, each holding a trumpet.
What Graves Should I See At Holy Rude Kirkyard?
Sconce Stone
Erected in 1689, the Sconce Stone stands as a lasting memorial to the old kirkyard wall, demolished in 1857.
If you stand in front of the stone when you visit, you’ll be able to get an idea of just how tall the kirkyard wall was.
This memorial is nearly 4 meters high and archival evidence proves it was the largest of all the wall monuments at Holy Rude.
Recently restored, this is one of those memorials that has a bit of everything – very much the same as the elaborate memorials at Greyfriars Kirkyard in Edinburgh, and in my opinion, just as elaborate.
There’s a great video on the Old Cemetery website (the official website for Holy Rude Kirkyard) showing the conservation of the stone if you want to check it out. It’s one of the most interesting 5 minutes I’ve spent recently, and I learn a lot from this short video.
Cleaned using a laser, it’s a far cry away from the harsh and damaging scours and stiff scrubbing brushes used by many, who, dare I say, illegally take conservation into their own hands.
The Martyr’s Monument
The Martyr’s Monument, known locally at the Mary Martyrs, is probably one of the best known, if not THE best-known, monument in Stirling’s Old Town Cemetery – the area just across the path from the original kirkyard at Holy Rude.
Carved by Handyside Ritchie, the marble figures that make up The Martyr’s Monument stand in memory of Margaret and Agnes Wilson, aged 18 and 13 respectively, who were tried and found guilty of High Treason and sentenced to death by drowning on 11 May 1865.
Their neighbour, Margaret McLauchlan, was tried and sentenced alongside them.
All three women were Covenanters, who sought to preserve Presbyterianism in Scotland, refusing to accept an oath declaring James VII as head of the church.
Their death was not to be a pleasant one.
The two Margarets were taken to the Soloway Firth, a tidal estuary on the Southwest coast of Scotland, between Dumfries and Galloway known for its mudflats and sandbanks.
Once here, they were taken to a point below the high- water mark and tied to stakes to await the turning tide.
It’s said that the elder Margaret was tied to a stake first in the hope that the sight would be enough to make the younger Margaret conform.
But this was not to be.
As for the young 13 year of Agnes, well, her father, Gilbert Wilson, managed to buy a temporary reprieve for the girl, but eventually she, too, met her fate.
The monument is incredibly moving when you see it and shows an angel watching over two young girls – Margaret, shown reading the bible to her younger sister Agnes, a lamb nestled at her feet.
Recently restored, again, there’s a fantastic video showing the restoration process which you might enjoy watching from The Old Town Cemetery
The Service Stone
Not too far from the Martyr’s Monument, you can find the 2nd oldest stone in the kirkyard, the Service Stone.
It was erected by local stonemason, John Service, in memory of his father John Snr and his wife Bessie Ewing.
The dating of the stone has proved to be tricky, and most people seem to have settled on the date of 1697 – a change from the previously quoted 1629. That said, Betty Willsher, the author that I mentioned earlier, along with a few others, reassessed things and put the date of the Service Stone as early as 1636.
Either way, this stone was used as an advert for the intricate work the stonemason could do should you want commission him to carve a gravestone.
I personally think there are nicer stones in the kirkyard but can appreciate its finery, mainly due to its age. It’s a little to weathered for me to appreciate it fully.
Take a wander though and see if you can find it. To help you find it, take a peek at the image below.
The base that the stone stands on is said to represent a coffin covered with a mortcloth. Crouch down and peer a bit closer – you may be lucky enough to spot a skull and small hands and feet, said to represent a body lying inside.
The Star Pyramid
You might know the Star Pyramid as Salem’s Rock, I personally had heard of neither until my first visit to Stirling.
This monument lies in what is known as the Drummond Pleasure Ground, a small piece of land purchased in 1862 for the sole purpose of building a monument to those who suffered martyrdom while fighting for civil and religious freedom in Scotland.
Housed within an inner chamber of the pyramid is a bible, along with a Confession of Faith.
Lady’s Rock
If you only do one thing when you visit Holy Rude, then it has to be climbing to the top of Lady’s Rock.
It lies at the foot of Holy Rude kirkyard and is pretty easy to spot, it’s the fairly substantial mound with a stone path winding its way to the top.
Pick your way up along the stone path to the top of the rock and not only are you treated to a fabulous view across Stirlingshire (weather permitting, of course) but you also get the most amazing view of Holy Rude Old Kirkyard to boot!
You’ll be standing in the footsteps of not only Bonnie Prince Charlie who, in 1746 watched the siege of Stirling Castle from here, but you’ll also be in the exact same vantage point that ladies from the castle would have stood to watch the jousting that took place in the dip where the graveyard now lies.
Even if the weather is slightly rubbish when you visit, I’d still recommend walking to the top, you might just be reward of the most amazing view ever. Just watch the stones as they can be slippery in wet weather.
The Reformer Statues
Laid out in an arch in the Valley Cemetery, you’ll find the statue of Reverend Dr James Guthrie, a key minister during the Covenanting period in Scotland and one who would ultimately be sentenced to death for his beliefs.
Strongly opposing the efforts of Kings Charles I and II to press Episcopal reform on the Church of Scotland, Guthrie was sentenced to death in 1660.
For 27 years following his hanging in Edinburgh’s Grassmarket, Guthrie’s severed head was displayed on a spike in Netherbow Port.
Guthrie’s statue, along with five other reformers, stands at the centre of this small cemetery, carved by the hand of Handyside Ritchie, the same man who carved the Martyr Monument.
Bodysnatching in Stirling
Finally, we get to a story about bodysnatching and if you’re familiar with my blog, you’ll know that the first reason I visit any graveyard is because it’s been targeted by bodysnatchers, and well, Stirling was no different if I’m honest
What originally drew me to Holy Rude was to see the gravestone of Mary Stevenson – or you might know her by her married name of Witherspoon.
Mary has the accolade of being the only person in the kirkyard that was buried twice – that’s if you discount the reinterment of the Black Friar in the Snowden Cemetery, part of the expanded cemetery dating to the mid-19th century.
But Mary is different. She’s buried in the old Kirkyard, and her stone is instantly recognisable due to the King of Terrors clutching his dart and the recumbent figure that adorns the face of the stone.
There’s nothing remarkable about Mary’s snatching. She died in November 1822, aged 55 after succumbing to dropsy, and as with all corpses targeted by bodysnatchers, no one was any the wiser until 3 days later, on the 19th November.
Taken from her grave just one month into the dissecting season, Mary, once married to local stone mason Joseph (some accounts say William) Witherspoon, was buried in the grave of her brother-in-law, James Livingstone and her body was about to fulfil an order from local medical student, 22-year-old John Forrest.
Mary’s body would already have started to decompose by the time the corrupt gravedigger James McNab, with accomplices Daniel Mitchell and James Shiels were exhuming her corpse.
Buried less than few inches below the surface, it wouldn’t have taken long to have broken the coffin lid and pulled Mary out with hooks and ropes.
But the inexperienced trio failed to follow a few basic bodysnatching rules and left a rope on the grass near Mary’s grave.
However, by the time the case came to trial, Forrest had fled Scotland and was rumoured to be hiding out on the continent.
But what happened to the two graverobbers remains something of a mystery.
Mistakenly released from prison – rumour has it by a prison guard himself – McNab and Mitchell immediately went on the run. McNab, by all accounts, didn’t get far and was quickly recaptured, but it would take the 77th Regiment, currently billeted at Stirling Castle, to bring down Mitchell who was hiding out on the roof of his lodging house.
Unfortunately, nothing is known about what happened to McNab and the other men involved, their story dying a death in the records.
Forrest, the medical student, however, was to receive a Royal pardon in 1824 after receiving a criminal record for his part in the snatching.
Ghosts In Holy Rude Kirkyard
You’ll be pleased to hear several ghosts haunt the old kirkyard at Holy Rude – a Pink Lady, a Black Lady and a Green Lady!
There’s some rumour that the Pink Lady of Stirling’s graveyard is non other than our body snatched victim Mary Witherspoon, although other believers say that she is the spirit of a noblewoman who died of a broken heart.
But what of the other two Lady’s found floating around the graveyard?
Following a fire at nearby Stirling Castle, it is said that The Green Lady is a maidservant of Mary, Queen of Scots who died while trying to save the Queen.
And The Black Lady?
Well, this is the story of another woman searching for a lost lover, this time it’s a nun searching for her lover, a priest.
How Do I Visit The Old Cemetery and The Kirkyard At Holy Rude?
Although the site has two entrances, I always recommend entering the kirkyard via the main entrance alongside the church itself.
It’s easy to spot.
Walk up from the Old Town (or down from the castle) and you’ll soon come to the church of The Holy Rude on the corner and see the path that runs alongside it. If you’re heading down after the castle, walk past the small enterance in the wall on your right.
If you enter through the main enterance, you’ll get to see the wonderful ochre painted Hospitaller building (Cowanes Hospital Trust) on your left as you walk up the path.
You’d also see the stained glass in the church as you pass – and if you’re visiting when the church is closed, this is going to be your only way of seeing it.
Straight ahead of you, through a small gate lies Holy Rude Kirkyard. You should be able to spot all of the landmarks mentioned in this post – The Martyr’s Monument, the Star Pyramid and catch glimpses of memento mori through the stones.
Is the Church of The Holy Rude Worth Visiting?
Absolutely it is, if it’s your thing that is.
Dating back to the 12th century, the church linked with Stirling’s oldest kirkyard, has one of the oldest surviving examples of a hammer beam roof in Scotland.
Taking its name from the medieval word for Cross of Christ’s Crucifixion, the Holy Rude church has a fabulous history that includes Mary Queen of Scots, which is thought to have worshipped here as a child.
It is also the place where her son, King James VI of Scotland, has his coronation in 1567.
The church is also very proud of its stained glass, which dates from the 19th century.
However, for me, my interest lies in the kirkyard, although I have been inside the kirk it’s been a few years now and, I’d rather spend my time wandering through the stones and taking more pictures to add to my ever-expanding collection.
If you do decide to visit though, just remember that the church still holds services, and it may be closed due to special events. You’ll also need to book a ticket for your visit.
To find the most UpToDate information, visit the Church of Holy Rude website for more.
